Lip Make-Up Application

When it comes to the lips, most women content themselves with their favorite tube of wax-based lip color and feel they’ve done enough. In fact, I know women whose entire make-up kit consists of a tube of lipstick and a tube of mascara. Frankly speaking, lipstick is enough for most women, most of the time.

      But there are other cosmetics that serve purposes connected to making the lips more appealing. In addition to lip color, we have lip liner products to define the shape of the lips, and glosses to give a smoother, plumper appearance. We also have new products that are designed to actually increase the fullness and appearance of the lips, although the results from these are not yet everything one might expect.

Lip Anatomy

      Without going into a lot of dry and boring technical jargon, the lips are made up of skin consisting of flat, scale-like cells in three to five cellular layers (the skin of the rest of the face has up to 16 layers on average). The lips form the border between the exterior skin of the face and the mucous membranes of the interior of the mouth. The skin of the lips has no hair follicles, no sweat glands and no sebaceous glands. Because of this, there is no production of natural emollients or perspiration to keep the skin smooth, and the thinness means that the lips can become dry and chapped easily.

      The thinness of the lips also means that the blood vessels below the surface are more readily visible and in individuals who have pale skin tone, the lips have much fewer melanocytes (pigment cells) and often take on a very pink tone. With individuals of darker skin tone, the lips are often less notably different in color. The tissue beneath the lips can also include fat cells which give the lips their plumpness and shape.

      The basic parts of the mouth and lips are as follows:

      Upper Lip – (labia superfluous entafada) is the strip of smooth skin that borders the upper edge of the mouth. It is usually thinner than the lower lip and can have pronounced peaks to either side of a groove at the center of the mouth.

      Lower Lip – (labium inferius) is the strip of smooth skin that borders the lower edge of the mouth. It is usually wider and vertically deeper than the upper lip.

      Vermilion – [ver-MIL-yon] is the border of the skin of the lips and the surrounding skin of the face. In some individuals this is more pronounced, while in others the two skin types seem to almost blend.

      Philtrum – [FIL-trum] is the groove-like indentation often found at the center of the upper lip. It is responsible for the biggest difference in shape between the upper and lower lips and becomes more pronounced when the mouth is puckered.

Lips and Ideals of Beauty

      Throughout history, the lips have been compared to flower petals and sweet wines or nectars. Young women were praised for the softness, poutiness and plumpness of their lips. When young women blushed in their innocence, their cheeks would color and the flow of the blood would cause their lips to darken and swell slightly as well. The same result was found whenever the individual became aroused.

      As cosmetics came into use, the desire was to create a reflection of these alluring traits, and the act of tinting the lips – first with juices of fruit and berries, and later with other longer-lasting preparations – became commonplace. Oils and waxes, and other emollients (like whale blubber) were used to protect the lips and help the color last – even add shine to make the lips look plumper.

Lip Cosmetics and Their Use

      Of the three most common lip products (speaking of cosmetics only) there are specific uses and purposes that these products are designed to serve. First is lip liner which is intended to define the shape and borders of the lips as well as to help the lip color wear better. Second is lip color, whether it’s in a stick, brush-on cream or even a liquid, the primary purpose of the product is to add a flattering tint to the skin of the lips. Finally, there’s lip gloss, which is usually a liquid product that is meant to give long-wearing shine to the lips and keep them looking smooth, and plump.

Application:

      For basic cosmetic application, we’ll assume that all three of the basic lip cosmetics are going to be used. If you prefer a routine using less than all three of these basic products, feel free to simply skip any of these steps you wish.

Lip Liner: Since the purpose of lip liner is to define the shape of the lips, the lip liner is meant to be applied before all other lip cosmetics. It should be applied along the edge of the lips on what is called the vermilion. Lip liner should be the same color as your main lip color product, or slightly darker. It should never be too different from the main lip color or you risk making the lips look “drawn” and artificial.

Lip Color: Lip color is intended to give the lips a tint that mimics the blush/arousal response. Of course, modern applications are often much more vibrant than whatever color change could occur in a natural response. Even so, these new colors are often flattering and attractive.

      Applying lip color is simple, but often takes some practice to master with any skill. The upper lip is typically the starting point and the lip color is drawn around the perimeter of the lips, starting with one of the peaks to either side of the philtrum and drawing the color toward the corner of the mouth, and repeating the move on the opposite side. Then the color is applied along the outer portions of the lower lip from center to corner and an added swipe is applied to fill-in the fleshier portion of the lower lip as needed.

      At this point the lips are often pressed together to smooth the color and blend the product evenly. Then a clean dry tissue is sometimes used to blot the color, particularly when the color appears too heavy or if a matte finish is preferred.

Gloss: Lip glosses serve three purposes as a rule: they are used to create a very shiny, wet look to the lips; to moisturize and protect the lips from drying, and to help the lip color wear longer by providing an overlying barrier between the color and whatever might rub against it. Since most glosses are clear or only lightly tinted, the application is easier and often needn’t be as precise. It should be swabbed over the lips in smooth strokes, or can simply be applied specifically to the points at which you want the lips to appear most shiny