B. Application Tips

Eye Make-up Application

The Eyes

      When it comes to eye make-up there are four basic products to consider: eyeliner, eye shadow, mascara, and eyebrow pencil. Each of these serves a specific purpose, and when used together – in a proper balance – can create very appealing looks – both natural and dramatic. These products are used on the face to define, enhance and emphasize the look of the eyes. This statement seems simple, but is deceptively so, because many women don’t understand the boundaries involved when we talk of “the eyes” and discuss the landmarks used in applying their eye make-up.

      The orbs through which we see are inset into sockets within the skull, and cushioned by a series of muscles and fatty tissues that mark their prominence within the face. This is overlain by a protective layering of skin which forms moveable covers for the eyes called lids. The opening and closing of the lids over the eyes constantly distributes lubrication and moisture to the surface of the eyes keeping them comfortable. The lids of the eyes are edged by tiny hairs (we call eyelashes) that protrude outward to form protective screens and help block irritants from getting onto the sensitive surface of the eye.

      There are also trimmings of short hairs that form along the bony ridge above the eyes that perhaps originally served a purpose to protect the eyes, but which have evolved into a more decorative function. These we call the eyebrows. The eyes themselves – the orbs through which we perceive light and images – contain lenses and components that contract to adjust to the level of light around us and to focus the images more clearly. These appear as a circular area of color on the white orb of the eye, in the center of which is a smaller black circle which varies in size according to the brightness of the surrounding light sources. The colored portion, called the iris actually contracts and expands, which creates the appearance that the inner black portion – called the pupil – grows and shrinks. The iris changes in size to restrict the amount of light that is admitted into the receptors.

Make-up

      The make-up used on and around the eyes is generally intended to serve two purposes:

      First, it is meant to enhance the shape and color of the eyes, either by complimenting the color or by making the color appear brighter and bolder.

      Second, it is meant to mimic the look of sexual arousal. When the body becomes sexually aroused there is an increased flow of blood into the face and the soft tissues surrounding the eyes will darken. This appearance generates a primal response in members of the opposite sex and has adapted into a desirable beauty trait.

Eye Shadow

      When applying your make-up on or around the eyes, the first step will be eye shadow. Depending upon the look you are trying to achieve, you will apply eye shadow to the lids (the upper and/or lower) the creases, and lower ridge of the brows. Generally this is to enhance the shape and contour of the eyes, making them appear more deep-set and romantic.
 The area to which eye shadow is traditionally applied follows the following landmarks: the inside corner of the bridge of the nose and the outer point of the eyebrow horizontally, and the eyebrow and bottom of the lower lid vertically.

      The specific methods of application vary both with the intended effect and the specific formulation of the make-up, but it should be noted that it is generally better to have lighter application of make-up for daytime wear, and more dramatic usage reserved for evenings. This includes keeping two separate color palettes of cosmetics with softer shades and pastels for day time, and richer colors and jewel tones for evening wear.

      Until such time as you become very comfortable applying your make-up, you should always try to keep your applications simple. The looks that you seen in fashion and beauty magazines are wonderful but are usually applied by professionals who have years of experience and who spend hours making the look just right. If you attempt to duplicate the look on your own, you may find that you are disappointed with the results.

      That’s not to say DON’T ever try new things, just keep your expectations realistic and make the changes in your techniques small. Rather than trying to duplicate the butterfly design of some fashion shoot, add in an additional color to your normal application to see how it will affect the look. Or perhaps you can use a neutral-toned metallic shade to add some sparkle to a daytime look.

Eye Liner

      This is, in my humble opinion, the single-most misused cosmetic in the industry. When used well, it is irreplaceable for lending definition and drama to the eyes, but when used poorly, it can be clownish, and can ruin the whole look.

      The secret to using eyeliner properly is two-fold. You must understand where and how it is meant to be placed, and you must practice applying it until you can do so comfortably and without hesitation. Even I, with years of practice and know-how, can find myself a little shaky when I start to apply eyeliner to a client. I just have to remember to take a moment to breathe deeply, and relax before I begin.

      Eyeliner is meant to do as its name says. It is intended to line the eyes. It gives an outline to the sometimes bland borders created by pale eyelashes and fair skin. Generally, eyeliner is meant to be applied in a thin line just inside the rows of eyelashes. However, for those who want the eyes to appear larger, applying eyeliner along the outside edge of the lashes is preferred.

      The thing to remember with eyeliner is that a gentle hand and light touch are sufficient. Remember that “less is more” is never truer than when you are talking about eyeliner.

Mascara

      Mascara is one of the most prevalent cosmetics in use in today’s society. A tinted moisturizer, light lip color and a tube of mascara are all some women rely on to get them through the day. Mascara is wonderful for what it does, which is to brighten and open the look of the eyes. It accomplishes this by depositing color onto the lashes making them appear darker.
 Newer advances in cosmetic chemistry have resulted in mascara formulas that not only darken the lashes but actually coat and thicken them, and in some cases even making them longer. Long, full lashes have always been a sigh of youth and allure, and therefore are more than a little desired.

      Applying mascara is best done after you’ve applied your eye shadow and eye liner, since the common formulation of most eye shadows is as a powder, which can dull the results of mascara if it is applied afterward. No one wants to have their lashes look “dusty”.

      The secret to a good looking mascara application is the definition and separation of the lashes. Some mascara formulas come with applicators that will make that easy. In other events, you may need to apply your mascara, allow it to dry, and then use an eyelash comb (or eyelash brush) and separate the lashes. A second coat of mascara post comb-out can be used if desired, followed by a second comb-though as needed.

Eye Brow Pencil

      The eyebrow pencil is probably one of the most misunderstood cosmetics on the market. I say that because I see it misused more often than almost any other cosmetic. Many women think of is as the ‘magic marker’ for the eyebrow, and try to use it to draw eyebrows on where they think they should be. Sadly, I actually grew up knowing a very sweet, and otherwise lovely, woman who shaved off her natural eyebrows (they were pale blonde) and instead drew in thin lines with an eyebrow pencil in their stead. To this day, I have no idea whether or not she actually thought what she was doing was fooling anyone, or if she truly believed that this was what she was supposed to do.

      Such dramatic mistakes aside, it’s not as uncommon as we might hope. Even women who don’t shave off their natural brows often try to draw or “color in” their eyebrows with a solid line. The result is that the brows often look unnaturally heavy, or simply artificial.

      The key to good eyebrows is multi-fold. The most important thing is proper shaping of the natural brows. The natural brows are always the better option for making the look. Then, as needed, use an eyebrow pencil to fill-in sparse or thin areas of the brows. The secret to this is using the eyebrow pencil to create short thin strokes to fill-in the brows. This gives a remarkably natural-looking result.