Application Specifics Eyes

Mascara and Eyeliner Application

When it comes to enhancing the eyes through the use of cosmetics, you really can’t overlook the importance of mascara and eyeliner. These two simple cosmetics provide so much impact on the overall look of the face that trying to make a go of it without them is often a losing battle. Let’s be honest, in the most pared-down, minimalist looks, the three “must-have” items are generally tinted moisturizer, mascara and lipstick, and personally, I know more women who are willing to part with their moisturizer and lipstick than are willing to part with mascara.

Since the eyes are the windows of the soul (poetically speaking) and are a key focus in the basics of facial recognition (scientifically speaking) how they are presented is extremely important. These are features that come with their own enhancement elements (lashes) and are centered in a nesting of musculature that makes them almost infinitely expressive. Because of this, it’s important to use care when enhancing them with cosmetics. Over-application can really hinder the desired result.

So, let’s look at these two eye-enhancing cosmetics and at the best uses of them to make the eyes look their best:

Mascara:

With mascara you find products that offer a surprisingly wide range of promises. Originally, mascaras were little more than temporary color for the lashes. They darkened the lashes (to black) making them stand out more and subsequently defining the eyes. However, today’s mascaras are designed to help maximize the lashes and to combat the common complaints many women have about their lashes. There are mascaras that thicken each lash (for those women who feel their lashes are too fine, or are too sparse), and there are mascaras that add length for those who feel their lashes are too short.

There are also mascaras that are not the traditional “black” or “dark brown” these days. There have been “fashion colored” mascaras for some time which have been popular off and on in certain circles and eras. These have ranged from white mascaras to the shades that match or coordinate with various eye shadow shades in “fashion colors”. While not necessarily appropriate for the supermarket or the PTA, these looks made an impact both for the wearers specifically and in general in the eras in which they were worn.

Today we have colored mascaras designed to enhance the eye color of the individual whether it’s blue, green, aqua or brown. This is done by including metallic tones in the color of the mascara which refracts colors of light to brighten and compliment the color of the iris (the colored portion of the eye). The specific metallic tone depends on the color the mascara is meant to enhance, so you have to choose the formula for your eye color, but these choices are simple and clearly outlined.

Choosing Mascara for Maximum Impact:

When it comes to choosing your mascara and applying it for maximum effect there are some things to consider: For instance, what is your most significant need from mascara? Are you someone whose lashes are long and lush, but blonde and therefore nearly translucent? Do you think your lashes are too thin or sparse? Do you wish your lashes were longer and brushed against your brows and cheeks when you batted them? The improvement you wish to create in the lashes determines the specific product you are going to choose.

We won’t go into specific brands and their respective formulas here, both because we generally tend to avoid brand/product endorsement, and because there are just too many different brands out there. Suffice it to say that you should make your choices based on your specific needs and not simply select a brand/product at random. If your eyes are ringed with a lush fringe of thick, stubby lashes, you don’t really want mascara whose primary purpose is to thicken the lash. Instead, you want one that will help to add length and will extend the lashes. And if you have long lashes, but feel that they’re too sparse or finely-textured (thin), a thickening mascara will give you the improvement you seek.

Simply put, you want the right tool for the job, and once you’ve selected the mascara that is appropriate to what you need, it becomes time to look at the ways you can apply mascara for maximum impact. {NOTE: There’s no rule that says you have to restrict yourself to only ONE kind of mascara. In many cases there are looks that can be created by using a “lengthening” mascara followed by a thickening mascara to create a DRAMATIC change in the look of your eyes.} However, first let’s look at mascara’s oft-forgotten companion, eyeliner.

Eyeliner:

This is a cosmetic that many women fear, and as a result they ignore the benefits that it can provide in creating a dramatic look in the eyes. Just the thought of trying to “draw” lines so close to their eyeball can make some women panic and therefore results in unsuccessful application attempts. However, when applied properly, eyeliner can not only be dramatic, but can provide very subtle enhancement.

The way to master eyeliner is simple: Practice. Get a basic eye pencil and some make-up remover, then practice applying and removing the eyeliner from your eyes. Soon enough, you’ll be ready to expand your eyeliner types and will be comfortable experimenting with a number of looks.

Eyeliner comes in two forms typically – liquid and pencil/crayon type. The liquid formula can have an applicator wand with a tapered tip or be a pen-style applicator with a reservoir and flexible nib. Pencil or crayon style eyeliners are generally wax-based and either encased in wood and sharpened as a pencil would be, or housed in a dispenser tube that allows an adjustable amount to be extended from the tip of the apparatus – similar to a lipstick tube, but usually the size of a small pen.

Typically, the pencil-type eyeliners are more stable in varied climates (heat, humidity, rainy weather) but often need more effort for a bold or heavy line. On the other hand, while liquid-type eyeliners will offer clean, bold lines, they can be easily smudged, and may be prone to run. Be sure if you choose a liquid-liner that you select a moisture-resistant or water-proof formula.

Advanced Application Techniques:

Okay, you’ve got your mascara of choice and are ready to make a change; the same with your eyeliner. So let’s look at a couple of application techniques that are meant to enhance the look of the eyes. Here’s a look at common issues that proper mascara and eyeliner application techniques can help with.

For Pale Lashes:

Pale lashes are a common complaint among individuals with fair skin and lighter colored hair. Often blondes and some redheads will note that their eyelashes appear lighter in color than that of their darker-haired friends. Since lashes are hair and are created by the body in the same ways as other hair fibers, they will grow according to their genetic coding and be whatever color the DNA indicates they should be. Of course, knowing that it’s not abnormal doesn’t make it any easier to accept.

Fortunately, this is where mascara and eyeliner can come in most handily. Obviously, mascara works to add color to the pale lashes. Depending on secondary needs, you can choose a thickening or lengthening mascara as well to add dimension or length as desired. Eyeliner serves the purpose of helping define the shape of the eye and also helps to make the lashes appear thicker by making them appear denser at the base of the lash.
 For Thin Lashes

For some women the complaint is simply that the eyelashes seem to be “thin” – either sparse or just skinny when looked at individually. The result is that they don’t define the eyes very well. Again, this is usually a matter of genetics, but if you develop loss of lashes in spots or if the lashes seem to fall out to a significant degree, you should consult with your doctor to make sure it’s not something to be concerned over.

Dealing with thin lashes using mascara is a matter of selecting a mascara that is designed to thicken (add to the diameter) of the lash. By thickening the diameter of each individual lash, such mascara makes the lashes appear thicker as a whole and there appears to be more lashes, where they might otherwise appear sparse. Eyeliner can further enhance the appearance of the lashes by using a thick line at the base of the lashes in order to give the illusion that the lashes are denser at the base.

For Short Lashes

It may seem that women who have eyelashes that they consider to be “short” have little recourse to resolve the issue (unless they want to learn to use false eyelashes and similar prosthetics). These women look with envy on their friends who seem to have long, sinewy, spider-like lashes that curl outward and brush seductively along the brow bone and cheeks, while their own lashes barely serve as more than a dense fringe on the edges of the eyelid.

However, today’s cosmetic sciences have brought forth many minor miracles in mascara application. One of these minor miracles is mascara that will extend the length of the lashes beyond their normal boundaries. This is achieved using a substance that adheres to the existing lash and builds outward along the length to create a lash extension that is purely cosmetic, and easily washes away. Just be sure you read the packages carefully when selecting these types of mascara that may claim to be “waterproof”. These may require special “removers” or else may only be “water-resistant” and may not stand up to extraordinary circumstances.

Extra Tips for Other Circumstances:

Small Eyes

Mascara, by its very nature helps to make the eyes appear larger, yet careful consideration when applying eyeliner can help make the eyes appear larger still. The key is to apply a thin line of eyeliner as close to the lash line as possible, preserving the edge of the lid unpainted. In most cases this is best accomplished by applying the eyeliner on top of the eyelashes.

Large Eyes

Large eyes, or at least eyes that seem too large and prominent can be minimized by using a medium line of eyeliner along the edge of the lid in order to “enclose” the eye. Be careful not to paint the eyeliner onto your eyeball, and be sure to use hypoallergenic cosmetics to minimize the risk of allergic reactions and sensitivities.
  Close Eyes

Close-set eyes are helped by using the mascara and eyeliner in much the same way as you do your eye shadow – by creating a shaded zone on the outside of the eyes to make them appear to “shift slightly” away from the middle of the face. This is done by applying the mascara a little more heavily to the outer corners of the eyes and by creating a tapered line with eyeliner that is thickest at the outside corners and tapers to a fine line toward the inside of the eye.

Wide Eyes

For Wide-set eyes, the principles described in the segment above for close-set eyes are simply reversed as far as direction is concerned. Apply your mascara more heavily on the lashes at the inner corners of the eye and make sure your eyeliner tapers toward the outside corners of the eyes. These tips in combination with the shading of eye shadow application, can dramatically rebalance the appearance of the eyes’ position.

On a final note, it is EXTREMELY important that you remember NEVER to share your mascara or eyeliner cosmetics with another individual. Even in your own household this kind of cross-contamination is not a good idea. The applicators for these products often come in contact with bodily fluids that can carry germs and bacteria and can transmit them from one person to another. In some cases, an infection spread from one individual can be worse in the person to whom it was transmitted than in the original host. Mascara and eyeliner are two cosmetics it’s OK to be stingy with. “Tell them where you bought it, but make them buy their own.”