1. Lipstick

Advanced Lip Color Techniques

The one area of women’s cosmetics that has and hasn’t changed dramatically is lip color. It hasn’t changed in that today, as in eras past, the colors available are many and varied and can be as vibrant or as subdued as you would want. It HAS changed, though, in the areas of formulation. In ages past, lipstick application took precision and repeated touch-ups to keep your mouth looking perfect.

The purpose of lip color is to mimic the blush response in the face and provide the impression of youthfulness. At least, this is the origin of using lip color. You see, when a person blushes, the blood-flow increases to the face, and the soft spongy tissue of the lips – which is translucent – grows darker from the blood seen through the skin of the lips. Lipstick is meant to mimic this response so that the person appears younger and more innocent, and thereby more appealing.

These days, lipsticks come in three main categories – lipstick, lip stain, and lip gloss. Of course there are ancillary products: lip balms, lip liners, lip filler, and plumping formulas. These all serve specific purposes and will be discussed in turn. But for the time being let’s look at the main categories of lip color and the needs they fulfill:

Lipstick

This is probably the product that comes to mind whenever most people think of lip color. Generally, it’s found as a wax-based “stick” that is applied to the lip surface the way one would use a crayon. Its shape is generally intended to make applying the product easier, though it can often wear down or become distorted by heat and other factors. (My mom was forever finding pools of waxy color in the bottoms of her purses or on car upholstery from leaving her lipsticks in the hot car while shopping or visiting away from home.

Lipstick’s specific formula is designed to serve two purposes: moisturize & protect the lips and add enhancing color to the lips. The original formulas of lipstick used things like wax and whale blubber to accomplish this, and modern formulas have developed all-natural and animal-friendly versions. Other lipstick formulas were more of a cream or paste that is dispensed by a sponge-tipped or brush-tipped wand applicator to give an easily-applied, smooth finish. The benefits of this formula are that the color is – generally - more-evenly applied, while the finish is typically shinier and gives a wetter look.

The drawback to these more liquid lipsticks is that they tended to wear off more easily. Since this means more-frequent re-applying, it also means more cost in the long-term because the product gets used up faster. In spite of this, the liquid/creamy lip color products are still very popular because of the silky, smooth, and light feel.

There are also long-wear versions of lipsticks, that usually come with a “sealant” product to try to lock the lipstick in place – either by creating a barrier to prevent the lipstick from rubbing off when eating, drinking, kissing or talking, or by solidifying the texture of the lipstick in order to make it harder to wear off. These generally get mixed reviews – some like the long-wear aspect enough to put up with what they deem are “minor” inconveniences in texture and feel, while others think the whole process is too unwieldy and the feel is too inhibiting. They deem it easier to simply re-apply their normal lipstick.

Lip Stain

The second category of lip color is generally called “lip stain”. These products can be just as viscous as the creamier lipstick formulas or they may simply appear like darkly-colored water. The purpose of lip stain is in the name. They are simply designed to impart color to the skin of the lips. As the name implies, they do in fact, stain the skin, and therefore offer long-lasting color. The longevity of the color imparted by lip stain is significantly greater than that of regular lip color.
 Many women love lip stains for the simple reason that they allow you to have long lasting color, and allow you to enjoy normal activities without having to fear losing the color or re-apply to keep it looking fresh (at least, not as often). They also love the fact these products are generally much lighter on the lips and typically feel most like wearing nothing at all. Even the heavier formulas are generally no heavier than lip gloss.

The drawback to lip stains is that they don’t afford the wearer the kind of protection and moisturizing that many traditional lipsticks and glosses offer. In fact, some alcohol-based lip stains can leave the lips feeling dry and tacky. They also don’t offer the kind of “smoothing” and “filling” that some lipstick offers. If your lips tend to be heavily textured with grooves and lines (a not-uncommon occurrence) lip stains won’t usually leave the surface looking smooth the way many lipsticks can.

Because of this, lip stains are generally preferred by those with smoother, plumper lips, or else are paired with a secondary product like a clear or lightly-tinted gloss to add shine, smoothness and a plumper appearance to the lips.

Lip Gloss

Lip Glosses are usually thick liquids or gels that have a high level of emollient and moisturizing agents and are designed specifically to give the lips a glossy, wet look. Most lip glosses are clear, though many can be found that are tinted, flavored and fragranced. In fact, among most tinted lip glosses, the color is just dark enough to impart a very little color to the lips along with the high level of shine.

Lip gloss is great for giving the lips a shiny, plumped look. However, they can be at cross purposes when used on thin, or heavily-wrinkled and lined lips. In these cases, the use of lip gloss can make the lines and wrinkles appear more pronounced.

Other Lip Products

Lip Balms are usually colorless, or lightly-tinted wax-based emollients that are designed protect the lips against exposure to sun, wind and other environmental effects. Often seen advertised in Fall and Winter months, lip balms are nothing more or less than good lip care. In practical use, lip balms are good for giving the lips a smooth finish, and can be paired with lip gloss when a high-shine effect is sought (with a hint of color), and can be used in place of lip filler in a pinch (though it doesn’t work quite as well with some other lip products).

Lip Liners are lip color products that are intended to give definition to the shape of the lips. Lip liner can be found as a slim crayon or pencil of wax-based color in a range of shades slightly darker than the normal lip color palette. In rare cases, you may find a liquid lip liner, applied with a brush tipped wand applicator. Lip liner is intended to be applied to the perimeter of the lips (the vermilion) and provide a border for the lip color. Most lip liner is meant to help prevent “bleed” of the lip color in lips that are rimmed by fine lines and wrinkles.

Lip Filler is a specialized product that often appears like a colorless lipstick. Other lip filler products use a neutral color and their primary purpose is to fill-in the lines and ridges that may be present on the lips, leaving a smooth canvas upon which to apply your lip color. It can also help to prevent lip color bleed in older women with many fine lines and wrinkles around the mouth.

Lip Plumpers are usually found as a two stage product containing a serum that is intended to stimulate the lip’s tissues and cause them to plump and appear fuller. The second stage is generally a glossy color that is then used to give the tint that is desired and add shine to enhance the plumped appearance. There are several of these products on the markets and most have gotten mixed reviews. It is certain that some work better than others, so this is a case where you should do your homework. If you are planning to use a lip plumping product, research them online and check customer reviews on different retailing sites. You’ll be happy to have spent the time instead of the money if you find the product you were planning to buy is considered a waste of money by the majority of its purchasers.
 Lip Problems and How to Fix Them:

Fine Lines and Wrinkles (mild to moderate)

When dealing with lips that have a few to medium-levels of fine lines and wrinkles, you can use a limp pluper product – if you’ve found one that works for you – or you can use a lip filler along with a lip color. Be sure to line the lips carefully, then apply your lip filler. Your top coat will be your lip color product. In these cases, I recommend using a satin finish product so that you can have some shine without risk of enhancing the lines and making the lips look older.

Severe Lines and Wrinkles

When the lines and wrinkles are heavier than average, you want to use your lip filler first and then apply the lip liner carefully. Once these steps are complete, apply your lip color using a matte formula product. The lack of gloss will help the lines and wrinkles fade beneath the surface of the color and give a more youthful look to the mouth.

Thin Lips

With thin lips, the secret is to apply your lip liner carefully along the outer edge of the lips in order to make them appear larger. Next apply a dual colored application of lip color in the same tone but one shade lighter than the other. Use the darker tone on the exterior of the lip and then apply the lighter shade to the interior body of the lips (both shades should still be lighter than the shade of your lip liner). This will make the lips look fuller and enhance the overall appearance of the mouth. If you have only one lip that seems thin, you can use this technique on the lip that needs it.

Thick Lips

In today’s society and with today’s attitudes there is almost no such thing as lips that are too thick. However, balance in the face is important and thick lips can sometimes be overpowering and you need to tone them down a touch. The trick is to apply your lip liner just inside the perimeter of the lips. Follow this with a lip color in a satin finish that closely matches the shade of your lip liner. Keeping the liner and color as close as possible will help to make the lips appear thinner.

As with most cosmetics, the key to making your lips look their best is to practice. Some women won’t feel the need for more than a simple tube of lip color, but when you want to give your look a little punch, take the time to try out some of the different products meant to help you enhance your lips’ appearance. You may find a more kissable you.